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EGR DELETE — 07.5-10 DURAMAX 6.6L LMM

3 HRWHITE LABELEGR DELETE KIT41 STEPS

Removing the EGR cooler and valve from a 2007.5–2010 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 6.6L LMM Duramax and fitting the block-off plates, coolant re-route and support bracket. The cast intake comes off in sections to reach the cooler, and goes back on with the new plates in place. Kit contents: exhaust block-off plate, two intake block-off plates with O-rings, U-shaped coolant tube with hose clamps, support bracket with washer, and hardware (M8 x 25 and M10 x 20 hex bolts, cap head bolts, flange nuts). On a used truck, soak every exhaust fastener with penetrating lubricant and give it time to work before you start undoing anything.

Steps

1 Disconnect the batteries
2 Drain the engine coolant

Remove the passenger side inner wheel well and disconnect the lower radiator line by removing its metal clip. The line does not need to come all the way off, only far enough for coolant to flow out. Once the flow has slowed and the overflow bottle is empty, reconnect the lower radiator line.

Drain the engine coolant
3 Loosen the intake hose clamps and disconnect the MAF sensor
4 Remove the intake tube

It runs from the filter to the plastic turbo mouthpiece.

Remove the intake tube
5 Remove the air box and filter

Gently pry out the three rubber grommets that hold the box.

Remove the air box and filter
6 Remove the resonator box on top of the engine

Loosen the hose clamp at the base of the resonator box and remove the long bolt on its front.

Remove the resonator box on top of the engine
7 Disconnect the charge-back wire on the alternator

Also remove the plastic clip that holds the wiring harness to the plastic wireway.

Disconnect the charge-back wire on the alternator
8 Disconnect the heater grid power wire

Open the plastic housing on top of the intake heater grid and disconnect the power wire inside.

Disconnect the heater grid power wire
9 Free the plastic wireway

Remove the two bolts and one nut that secure it in place.

Free the plastic wireway
10 Disconnect the connector on the front of the heater grid

Then remove the bolt that secures the connector wires to the side of the intake.

Disconnect the connector on the front of the heater grid
11 Remove the plastic clip holding the rest of the wire
12 Disconnect the plastic intercooler pipe from the cast intake

Pop out the metal retaining clip on the plastic intercooler piping and pull the plastic piece off the cast aluminium piece.

Disconnect the plastic intercooler pipe from the cast intake
13 Unbolt the forward section of the cast intercooler piping

Remove the wire connector and the four bolts that hold the forward-most section to the intermediate section. On the underside of the forward piece there is a fifth bolt to a support bracket, circled in the photo of the previous step.

14 Remove the forward piece of the cast intercooler piping

Take care not to damage the gasket. It is reused on reassembly.

Remove the forward piece of the cast intercooler piping
15 Remove the small tube on the cast intake

It sits next to the intake heater grid.

Remove the small tube on the cast intake
16 Remove the main section of the cast intake

Four nuts and two bolts hold it. Two of the bolts are on the back side of the main section. It comes out of the truck more easily if you remove the two studs with a reversed torx socket.

Remove the main section of the cast intake
17 Remove the PCV tube

Disconnect it from the driver and passenger side valve covers and from the plastic turbo mouthpiece.

18 Remove the plastic turbo mouthpiece

Loosen the hose clamp that secures it to the turbo.

19 Remove the two temperature sensors from the EGR cooler

They are on the passenger side of the cooler.

Remove the two temperature sensors from the EGR cooler Remove the two temperature sensors from the EGR cooler
20 Disconnect every coolant line running to the EGR cooler
21 Remove the EGR cooler

Six bolts hold it: four at the back of the cooler, two facing forward and two facing down, and two rear-facing bolts at the front.

22 Remove the temperature sensors from the truck

With the cooler out, disconnect the sensors at their electrical connectors and take them out.

23 Remove the EGR valve

Two bolts hold it. Keep one of them; it is used when the support bracket goes on.

Remove the EGR valve
24 Remove the coolant lines that ran from the EGR cooler to the firewall
25 Install the exhaust block-off plate

Use the factory gasket and the supplied hardware. Two M8 x 25 hex head bolts go in from the back, and one M10 x 20 hex head bolt holds the bracket in place. The photo shows an earlier bracket design; the fitting is the same.

Install the exhaust block-off plate
26 Install the U-shaped coolant tube

It runs from one firewall port back to the other, the two ports that previously fed the EGR cooler. Secure it with the supplied hose clamps.

27 Install the support bracket where the EGR valve was

The bracket washer goes underneath the bracket on the M10 x 20 hex head bolt. The other bracket bolt is the one you kept from the EGR valve.

Install the support bracket where the EGR valve was
28 Install the intake block-off plates

Fit both billet plates with their O-rings onto the cast intake using the remaining supplied cap head bolts. The longer bolts go on the side towards the front of the vehicle.

29 Refit the plastic mouthpiece and the PCV tube
30 Refit the main section of the cast intake

The two longer bolts, now towards the front, line up with and pass through the two remaining holes in the support bracket. Secure the intake to the bracket with the supplied flange nuts.

Refit the main section of the cast intake
31 Refit the forward piece of the cast intake

Take care not to damage the gasket. Once it is on, reconnect the wire connector to the throttle plate.

Refit the forward piece of the cast intake
32 Refit the plastic intercooler piping
33 Reconnect the heater grid wire

Then mount the wire support bracket back in place.

Reconnect the heater grid wire
34 Mount the wiring harness back on top of the cast intake

It sits in the plastic liner. Put the small metal bracket back onto the stud.

Mount the wiring harness back on top of the cast intake
35 Reconnect the small sensor tube

It goes to the port on the cast intake next to the heater grid.

36 Reconnect the heater grid power wire

It runs to the top of the heater grid under the plastic housing.

Reconnect the heater grid power wire
37 Reconnect the charge-back wire on the alternator

Use the plastic clip to hold the wiring harness to the plastic wireway again.

Reconnect the charge-back wire on the alternator
38 Refit the intake resonator box

It sits on top of the plastic turbo mouthpiece. Secure it with the hose clamp and the long bolt at its front.

Refit the intake resonator box
39 Refit the air box, filter and intake tube

Reconnect the MAF sensor and tighten the intake hose clamps.

Refit the air box, filter and intake tube
40 Reconnect the batteries and refill the coolant

Fill to factory specification.

41 Start the engine and check for leaks

Let it idle for a few minutes and top up the coolant as the system burps air.