// Install guides
EGR DELETE — 11-16 DURAMAX 6.6L LML
Let the engine cool completely first. This job is terrible on a hot engine. The up-pipe and downpipe bolts break easily. Soak every one in penetrating fluid as early as you can, heat them if you are able to, and take your time. If a bolt does break, reach out to us: we have a TSB manual for removing the turbo so the bolts can be drilled out.
Removing the EGR cooler, bypass pipe and factory up-pipe on a 2011–2016 Chevy/GMC 2500/3500 6.6L LML Duramax, and fitting the blocker plate, coolant re-route and new up-pipe. Before you start, confirm all parts are present and read the whole guide. Tools: • General ratchet set • Pry bar • Torch • Penetrating fluid
Steps
1 Let the engine cool, disconnect the battery and drain the coolant
2 Remove the fender liner and soak the turbo and downpipe bolts
The liner is held by T15 Torx bolts. Hit every bolt on the turbo and downpipe with penetrating fluid. The longer it sits, the less likely they are to break on you. Breaking bolts during this job is common.
3 Remove the top cover and intake hose
Then unbolt the wiring harness from the intake pipe.
4 Disconnect the connectors on top of the motor
Disconnect the throttle valve near the passenger side and the green connector back toward the firewall. Open the casing on the side to disconnect the red power line.
5 Remove the intake hose before the throttle valve
Turn the locking ring with a flat head screwdriver.
6 Remove the intake pipe
Two bolts still retain it.
7 Disconnect the two connectors on the turbo air intake pipe
They are on the back side of the engine, one white and one black.
8 Release the hose clamp at the turbocharger inlet
Tucked in and hard to see, it connects the plastic intake hose to the turbo inlet. 8mm or flat head.
9 Unbolt the dipstick bracket
Passenger side.
10 Unhook the coolant lines to the EGR cooler
11 Remove the EGR bypass pipe
Held on by five bolts. It runs from the passenger side by the up-pipe to the driver side near the A/C compressor.
12 Unbolt the EGR cooler from the motor
The pictures show most of the bolt locations, and the cooler once removed so you can visualise where they are. The next two steps cover the final removal and the bolts on the up-pipe.
13 Remove the up-pipe to EGR cooler bolts
The hardest bolts on the job. Three bolts (white arrows) join the cooler to the up-pipe and two (red arrows) join the cooler to its bracket. The rear three usually need a wrench and a pry bar together. Be careful and take your time: they are prone to breaking.
14 Separate the two halves of the EGR cooler
Four 13mm bolts join them. The bottom two are only reachable once the whole assembly is off the motor, which is why this comes last.
15 Remove the hard coolant pipe down the back of the block
It has to come off to get the downpipe out, and is held by a single 13mm bolt. Be careful of the O-ring: if it is damaged you will have to replace it.
16 Remove the downpipe
First, at the driver side firewall, undo the electrical module. It is easier to remove this than the sensor on the downpipe, so take them off together.
The downpipe has two V-band clamps holding its top and bottom to the turbo. Undo both, along with the 9th injector for the DEF system.
The heat shield comes out from the top of the engine bay and the downpipe from underneath, so undo the three bolts holding them together.
17 Remove the up-pipe bolts at the turbo
These bolts break easily, so take your time. There are six: three up and three down. Heat them if you can, and use an impact gun if possible.
If none of them broke, you are on the home stretch. If they did, reach out to us for the TSB manual on removing the turbo to drill them out.
18 Install the blocker plate on the intake
It goes behind the A/C compressor.
19 Install the coolant re-route kit
On the hoses coming out of the firewall.
20 Install the new up-pipe
It goes directly to the turbo.
21 Reinstall everything except the EGR and bypass pipe
Leave the throttle valve plug disconnected, and set the two orange connectors from the EGR valve off to the side.
Confirm there are no leaks at the hard line or the newly installed re-route hoses. Then get out there and enjoy the kit.
