// Install guides
EGR DELETE — 19.5-23 GEN 3 ECODIESEL 3.0L
Dual battery trucks: both batteries must be properly disconnected and isolated before you start, to prevent wiring damage or airbag deployment on reconnection. Turn the ignition off and wait at least 5 minutes for the main modules to go to sleep before touching a terminal. Have a catch pan ready. Coolant drains at several points.
Removing the low pressure and high pressure EGR systems on a 2019.5–2023 Gen 3 3.0L EcoDiesel (RAM 1500, Jeep Wrangler and Gladiator) and fitting the CNC delete kit. The low pressure side is done first and buttoned up before the high pressure side comes out. Tools: • Ratchet • 10mm and 13mm sockets • 10mm wrench • 5mm Allen key • T30 socket (and a T40 bit for the rear cooler bracket) • 8mm socket • Small and medium flat head screwdrivers • Various pliers, including vise grips • Catch pan for coolant Torque specs: none. The kit is maintenance free. Kit contents: • 1 × P051-0995 coolant adapter • 1 × P051-0996 intake delete plate • 1 × P051-0997 intake support bracket • 2 × P051-0998 coolant hose connector • 1 × M6 flange head nut • 2 × M6 × 25mm Allen bolts • 1 × 8mm nipple plug • P023-0129 3.0 EGR delete intake BOP • P023-0130 3.0 exhaust BOP • P051-1004 EcoDiesel stand pipe support • 3 × M6 × 20mm flange head bolts • 3 × #8 (5/8 to 15/16") lined stainless hose clamps • 2 × M6 top lock flange nuts • 1 × 1/8" NPT male SHCS plug • 1 × 1/8" NPT male to 3/16" barb • 1 × 1/8" ID vacuum hose cap • 2 × M6 × 25mm flange bolts • 2 × 8" nylon cable ties • 2 × M6 × 12mm flange head bolts • 1 × 3/4" ID heater hose • 2 × #12 lined stainless hose clamps • 2 × M10 × 20mm grade 8.8 bolts • 1 × 117 O-ring (13/16" ID × 3/32")
Steps
1 Disconnect and remove the battery
Turn the ignition off and wait at least 5 minutes for the main modules to go to sleep.
Dual battery: disconnect and isolate the auxiliary battery negative cable from the main battery negative cable end, which isolates the aux battery ground. Disconnect the main battery ground cable from the negative terminal. Disconnect both battery positive terminals and remove the battery from the vehicle.
Single battery: disconnect the main battery ground cable from the negative terminal, then the positive terminal, and remove the battery from the vehicle.
2 Remove the engine dress cover
Remove the 2 × 10mm bolts. Lift the cover up and pull it forward to release the 2 push lock pins at the rear, then take it out of the engine bay.
3 Remove the intake system
Loosen the intake hose clamp at the turbo inlet elbow with a flat head screwdriver. Loosen the PCV hose clamp and pull the PCV tube off the intake pipe. Unplug the MAF sensor from the intake pipe: pull back the grey lock tab (gently, with a small screwdriver if tight), then depress the tab and pull the plug back. Lift the airbox to release its 2 push lock pins and remove the intake system from the vehicle.
4 Remove the foam cover on top of the valve cover
Remove the 2 × 10mm bolts and gently lift the foam insert out. Keep it for later.
5 Move the coolant reservoir aside
Remove the 2 × 10mm nuts holding the reservoir to the cowl. With a flat head screwdriver, release the hardline from the retaining clip on the reservoir. Pull up on the reservoir to free it from the push lock fitting underneath, and swing it toward the front of the vehicle to open up access to the EGR system.
6 Unbolt the EGR pipe and throttle body from the intake elbow
Remove the 2 × T30 bolts between the EGR pipe and the throttle body, and the 2 × 5mm Allen bolts between the throttle body and the turbo inlet elbow.
7 Remove the intake elbow and plug the turbo inlet
Remove the 10mm nut and 10mm bolt holding the electrical cable to the turbo elbow, and the 10mm stud holding the control valve to the intake elbow. Disconnect and remove the hose from the control valve where it joins the intake elbow, then remove the elbow from the engine.
Plug the turbo inlet so nothing falls in during the install.
8 Remove the hose from the EGR cooler
Move the hose clamp and pull the hose off. Have a catch pan ready for the coolant that drains out.
9 Remove the throttle body
Remove the 10mm bolt from the back of the throttle body. Release the yellow lock tab on the throttle connector by pulling it back, then depress and remove the connector. Take the throttle body off the engine.
10 Remove the three EGR cooler bolts
10mm. See the diagram for their locations.
11 Unbolt the EGR pipe
Remove the 10mm bolt from the EGR pipe support bracket; access is best from the passenger side. Remove the 2 × 13mm nuts joining the EGR pipe to the DPF outlet on the exhaust, if not done already.
12 Remove the remaining coolant hoses, the spacer bracket and the actuator
Remove the 3 remaining coolant hoses from the EGR cooler. Remove the EGR cooler spacer bracket between the EGR and the engine. Remove the actuator hose from the cooler (#4 in the picture), then unplug the actuator and remove it from the engine.
13 Release the coolant quick-connect on the driver side of the engine
Compress the white tabs on the quick release and pull up to remove the coolant line. This gives extra room for getting the EGR cooler out.
14 Remove the EGR cooler and EGR pipe
Gently work the cooler and pipe out from behind the engine; they come out the top of the engine bay. Once the assembly is half out you may need to remove the 2 × 13mm nuts holding the EGR pipe to the cooler inlet to manoeuvre the pipe the rest of the way.
That is every part of the low pressure EGR system off the engine.
15 Install the two coolant hose adapters on the EGR coolant lines
As shown in the photo.
16 Fit the support bracket and block off plate to the intake elbow
Use the supplied 5mm Allen bolts, as pictured. Fit the nipple plug onto the inlet elbow bung.
17 Reinstall the intake elbow
Remove the turbo inlet plug. The elbow is a push-fit O-ring seal on the compressor inlet. Line the support bracket slot up over the matching valve cover stud and secure the bracket to the stud with the supplied 6mm hex nut.
18 Reinstall the foam insert over the valve cover
Secure with the 2 × 10mm bolts.
19 Reattach the coolant reservoir
Seat it in the bottom push lock first, then fit the 2 × 10mm nuts up top. Clip the hardline back into its retaining clip.
20 Reinstall the intake tube and airbox
Make sure the airbox is seated correctly in its push locks. Reattach the PCV line and the MAF connector and tighten all clamps.
The low pressure side is done.
21 Remove the passenger side intercooler tube
This starts the high pressure side.
22 Remove the foam shield
The bracket holding the foam runs along the side of the engine; a 10mm socket and ratchet reach it there.
23 Remove the EGR intake tube and install the red blocker plate
With an 8mm socket, remove the bolts on both sides of the EGR intake tube. Install the red blocker plate with 2 × M6 × 16mm flange head bolts.
24 Undo the EGR exhaust tube at the cooler end
Gently bend it out of the way as needed. The turbo end of this pipe is easier to remove after the next step, so leave it for now.
25 Undo the EGR cooler bolts
Remove the two nuts on top of the cooler. A sensor needs to move out of the way too: once the top and side fasteners are loose, bend it very gently aside.
The bracket on the back takes a T40 bit. If it strips, there is room to cut the bracket in half with a reciprocating saw.
26 Disconnect the fuel return line quick-connects on top of the injectors
Highly recommended before you try to remove the cooler. They are easy to disconnect and even easier to break by accident during cooler removal. Cover the open ports.
27 Remove the EGR cooler
Everything should now be separated from the upper part of the cooler. You may have to bend a heat shield out of the way and push some wires aside. Pull it straight up. Expect some coolant to spill.
28 Install the exhaust blocker plate
Once the EGR exhaust tube is fully out, install the stainless plate with the OEM gasket using the 3 supplied M6 × 20mm flange head bolts. For a bit more room you can wait until the cooler mount is out (next step).
29 Remove the EGR cooler mount
Remove the M6 bolt holding the sensor tube near the firewall onto the bracket and very gently bend the tube out of the way. Remove the M6 bolts holding the coolant standpipe to the front of the bracket. Finally remove all the M10 bolts holding the bracket to the block. Expect some coolant to spill.
30 Install the new bracket, standpipe and coolant adapter
With the supplied M10 bolts, fit the two-bend bracket in the forward two holes that held the EGR cooler bracket. The standpipe should line up close to it.
Make sure the O-ring is properly seated in the coolant adapter, then align the bracket, standpipe and coolant adapter from front to back as shown.
31 Re-form the sensor tube tab and mount the tube on the new bracket
The sensor tube you unbolted earlier is now very gently formed to reach the supplied bracket. Right next to the sensor, the 90-degree tab needs straightening. Do it methodically with pliers, holding the base of the tab with vise grips. Do not put any force on the tube or on the weld holding the tab to the sensor block.
With the tab straight, mount the tube to the bracket with an M6 bolt and nut.
32 Install the coolant hose
Fit the pre-cut hose onto the open coolant ports with the #12 hose clamps.
33 Reinstall the sensors and fuel line
Reconnect the sensor wires, the return fuel line quick-connects, and anything else you removed to get here.
34 Reinstall the engine dress cover
Secure with the 2 push locks and 2 × 10mm bolts.
35 Reinstall the battery
Enjoy years of EGR reliability, power and efficiency.
