EGR DELETE — 16-19 TITAN XD 5.0L CUMMINS

The charge-air cooler outlet pressure/temperature sensor on top, the EGR bypass connector near the bypass tube, and the intake manifold air temperature sensor on the right side. Cut the zip ties on the wire loom or pop its clips off the tube.

8mm: the bolt on the breather tube clamp to the lower right of the charge tube. 10mm: 1 bolt on the fuel filter housing, 1 bolt at the air inlet connection, 4 bolts holding the tube to the intake manifold, and 1 bolt under the tube holding its adapter to the block. 10mm socket or ratcheting wrench: the 4 bolts from the EGR bypass tube to the bypass valve, behind the charge tube and under the intake manifold.

It is tough because of the small black tube underneath it, and one more sensor is still connected under there. Once the tube is free, rotate it toward you and disconnect the EGR temperature sensor.

8mm socket to remove the black tube that went into the charge tube. 5mm hex socket to install the supplied O-ring, round blocker and blocker plate in its place.

Phillips and flat head. 7 screws and 2 plastic push rivets, if yours still has them all. It makes everything on this side much easier to reach.

3 bolts, 8mm socket or ratcheting wrench.

3 bolts on the back of the EGR, 10mm.

Fit one of the black dead plugs to the truck's connector. It is not used again.

11mm deep well socket: loosen the top 2 band clamps on the rubber tubing to the air outlet tube, then the bottom 2 at the charge air cooler. An O-ring spoon or pick may be needed to separate the tubing.

4 bolts, 10mm.

4 bolts, 10mm.

4 bolts, 8mm, at both ends. Rotate the supply lines out of the way for now if you can.

Pry bar and rubber mallet, working it away from the intake manifold and charge tube until you find the spot that lets it come free. It is heavy; a second pair of hands helps.

This is where it gets messy. Have the coolant catch ready.

8mm to remove the 2 bolts on the old connection; draw the coolant out with a syringe if you have one and clean the area thoroughly. Fit the new connection with its 2 O-rings seated properly, using the 2 new bolts, lock washers and washers, tightened with a 5mm hex socket. Connect the new hose from it to the coolant reservoir with 2 hose clamps, tightened with a 1/4" socket.

Clean and dry the block face and the plate before fitting. If your kit came with RTV, add a thin bead as well for extra seal.

Remove 3 of its 4 bolts (8mm socket or ratcheting wrench) and loosen the fourth if you cannot reach it, then rotate the shield aside.

Reach under the intake manifold and remove the 3 bolts, 10mm. Pull the tube out from under the manifold.

3 bolts and nylon nuts from the kit, 13mm. If the gasket was damaged on removal, replace it with P/N 73090.

13mm: the 3 nuts holding the top of the tube to the exhaust manifold collector pipe, and the 3 nuts holding the bottom to the passenger side exhaust manifold. A pry bar may be needed to pop the bottom out.

Reuse 5 of the 6 old nuts (13mm), and use the supplied bolt and nylon nut at the top where it meets the collector pipe. Bend the large heat shield back down and refit its 3 bolts (8mm); make sure all 4 are tight.

Fit the 45° 2.5" to 3" black rubber elbow to the tube; either side works. Put a 75/67 band clamp on the 2.5" end that goes to the truck inlet and an 87/79 clamp on the 3" end. Do not tighten either; adjustments come later.

T15 bit to remove the charge-air cooler outlet pressure/temperature sensor; 1" wrench to remove the intake manifold air temperature sensor (P/N 2872658). Be gentle if you clean them. Fit the temperature sensor to the new tube with the 1" wrench, and the pressure/temperature sensor with the supplied hardware and a 7mm socket. Do not reuse the T15 stock hardware: it is too long. Press the big O-ring into the end of the new charge tube; it starts round and has to be formed into the groove.

If your kit came with RTV rather than an O-ring, make the gasket on the charge tube flange with the RTV instead.

Push the air outlet tube onto the lower end of the charge air cooler, with Windex inside to help. Put 2 × 87/79 band clamps on the 3" silicone coupler (P/N 131-07603-0401), spray Windex on its end and twist it onto the outlet tube. Align so the far end meets the intake manifold. Do not tighten the clamps yet.

6mm hex socket for the 4 supplied bolts into the intake manifold. Then tighten the band clamps with a 10mm socket, making sure none sits on a lip of the tube.

Remove the oil filler cap for clearance and reconnect both sensor connectors. Fit 2 black dead caps to the 2 remaining unused connectors and zip-tie them away to the harness. Tighten the remaining bolts and clamps and tidy loose ends.

11mm deep well socket to loosen its 3 band clamps. Remove the pipe, clamps and silicone coupler.

Fit a 2.5" to 3" silicone reducer (P/N 131-06376-3401) to the bottom end of the tube first, then the other to the engine side, with Windex to help. Engine side: 75/67 clamp first, then 87/79. Bottom: 87/79 first, then 75/67. Do not tighten.

The 90° bend goes at the bottom of the charge air cooler. Work the tube down the engine bay and align the top end first; do not try to attach the bottom first. Once the top is on, align the bottom and seat its reducer on the fitting, then slide the top reducer over the top of the tube. Tighten all 4 clamps with a 10mm deep well socket.

Top the system back up to replace what came out with the EGR cooler and its lines. Reconnect the batteries, start the truck and check for leaks at the transfer connection, the new hose and the charge tubes.